Hiking Las Cristilinas

The school organized a guided hike up Las Cristilinas or the Broken nose mountain.  When you look at the mountain, you can see a face looking up towards the sky. Mayan legend says it is an ancient chief.  There were 5 of us in the group; Phillip from California and Jared from Pennsylvania, Jennifer and My, from Sweden.

There are many ways of getting around Guatemala and one of the most interesting is in the back of a pickup truck.  There are designated pickup spots or you can flag one down along the road. They are always small pickups and there is no limit to the number of people, supplies and animals that will climb in back.  So this was our mode of transportation for the trip over to San Juan. Being early in the AM, it was a comfortable ride over. 

Dropped off in the the center of town we made our way towards the trail head. Small entrance fee for tourists to use the trails paid we set off. Trails are also used by the Mayans to move from village to village, but I suspect they don't pay.

Hike up was good, not too difficult. Was hazy out so photos from the various vistas were not so great.  Made it up in about 2.5 hours, with plenty of stops along the way. Overall trail was good, but was always narrow and in lots of places if you went over the edge, it would be a quick trip back down to San Juan.  Also walked through lots of coffee plants, planted on the side of the mountain.  Poor buggers that had to pick those beans, so steep.

Santa Juan is on the South side of the mountain and charges a fee to use the trail. And on the North side is Santa Clara. Apparently there is a bit of dispute which village owns the top and is entitled to the collected fees.  So when we were going down another fee was paid to the village of Santa Clara.  Whose pocket it all ends up in would never know, but it is only a buck or two.

Santa Clara is a nice little village, with a great practical Saturday market. Lots of really good looking fresh fruit and other food. Just about anything else can be purchased for the house as well. We spent an hour there wandering around the market.

Our first mode of transport back to San Pedro was again by pickup. This was going to be a bit different than the mornings ride. We jumped on first, but 15 minutes later there were 20 people loaded, two hanging off the back a few 20 lb bags of corn, several other bags, but thankfully no animals.

In researching trips to Central America there are lots of stories about transportation and rides like this in particular, some ending tragically. Keep in mind, we are still high up in the mountains and we have to go down...down curvy roads. Not curvy as in, please slow down from 55 to 45, which no one ever does. Curvy as in come to a near stop as the truck basically makes a U-turn. Maybe the driver was just being nice because the view as we approached the S curve was so great. In fact the view was great because there was no railing, no fence, no trees obstructing the view, just a sheer drop off to the bottom.  Having never experienced anything like this I began to consider "when is the best time to jump" out of the truck if there is one as the breaks go out and starts over the edge.

Ah well, just nervous thoughts as we pull into another village. From here we transfer to a Tuk Tuk to take us the rest of the way to San Pedro.  Tuk Tuk's may look cute, a novelty to be tried once, but not when the ride is 25 mintues long. A Tuk Tuk is a three wheeled transport with a moped motor and wrapped in a shell. I fit comfortably in the back, with the driver in front, going a short distance....not today. Three of us in the back, including bigger Jared who thankfully elected to hang one leg out the side and two in front. So 5 of us in a Tuk Tuk on roads with plenty of holes, bumps, stream crossings and one on one encounters with the buses. I can only say that if we were going down more curvy roads,  I would have walked.

Well that's it, up and down, a strange way to have fun.  Next weekend, I hope to climb the volcano San Pedro, with I am sure more payoffs, interesting rides and possible Bandits hiding in the bush.

"Room for the whole family" tuk tuk, putt putt          Hiking photos

San Pedro La Laguna - Arrival and settling

Arrived in San Pedro de La Laguna last Friday night, January 14th.  It was late and as we got off the launch, Mikhel and I were immediately surrounding by people asking to take us to a Hostel or Tuk Tuk drivers asking to drive us somewhere.  Even if you know where you will be staying, the people want to take you there because they will then tell the owner of Hostel that they delivered us there and will extract a tip.  We met a German girl, who suggested we try Casa Domingo, a cheap Hostel close by. As we started off, Pedro of San Pedro tagged along with us, trying to make conversation, asking us basic questions of where we are from etc. We reached the end of the road and had to make a right down a dark dirt path. This was of a little concern because Pedro was hot on our heals and I had to prepare myself for a little encounter.  I noticed that Mikhel took out a knife that he carried and wrapped it into his fist. We only went about 50 yards until we found Casa Domingo.

The rooms were as basic as can be, a prison cell being one step up.  We decided to go for it as it was only one night and we just needed a place to throw our bags and crash for the night. And at 30 Quetzsals a night it was a bad deal. 30 Quetzales being just under $4.00.  I saw Pedro get his tip from the lady who owned the place. When I got my key and was putting my stuff down, Pedro of San Pedro kindly offered to sell me some drugs.  He had it all, Pot, Mushrooms, XTC and some other stuff I didn't understand.  Bags in place, we headed back down towards the dock for some street food and beers at Alegre, a local Irish Pub.

Next morning, I was up early, took some pictures of the chickens getting fed and headed up the Coopertiva Spanish School to sign up for classes and hopefully rent an apartment they offered. I was the first one there, signed up for classes and was able to rent the apartment. Apartment was nice, big room with bed and desk, a kitchen, bathroom, with tiled floors and painted walls. Best part is that is has a balcony with a great view of Lake Atitlan. With all of that in place I spent, the better part of the day familiarizing myself with San Pedro.

San Pedro de La Laguna is one of 13 villages around Lake Atitlan. It has a population of about 13,000 and is basically divided into two parts; the tourists and hippies down towards edge of the lake and the center of town with the locals further in the hills. Overall pretty small, but it does offer a great view of the lake and surrounding volcanoes; San Pedro, Toliman and Atitlan.

Photos in and around San Pedro.

Guatemala bound

12 hour trip from San Cristobal de Las Casas to San Pedro de La Laguna in a clean Mercedes Sprinter van.   Left at 7:00, on Mexican time, 8 people in the van.  Mike from St. Paul, MN sits next to me and we have a good chat about back home. It is a beautiful drive through a mountain valley pass with a river running through most of the way.

Also met a couple from Guatemala/Sweden, Marcos from Georgia who was working for Habitat for Humanity, Mikhel from Italy and a Canadien Mother and Daughter.

At the Mexican/Guatemalan border we have to switch vans to a Guatemalan driver for the final leg to San Pedro.  Before getting to San Pedro we are dropped off in Panajachel and have to take a "launch" or boat across Lake Atitlan to San Pedro.  Trip across the lake is about 45 minutes with a few stops in between.

Chiapas - tourist stopover

Chiapas – On the way back the tour van made an obligatory tourist stop in Chiapas so we could walk around the market.  The town itself is nothing spectacular, just rows of merchant stall selling the normal tourist trinkets. I did walk around an old convent and church, Santo Domingo de Guzman.  Pretty neat stone building with a an arched courtyard. 

I purchased an orange juice drink, which they have an interesting way of serving “to go”.  The juice is poured into a plastic bag, straw inserted and rubber band wrapped around to seal it shut.   It’s great buying juice drinks off the street vendors because everything is freshly squeezed. 
Photos of Chiapas

Canyon del Sumidero - River Trip

Canyon del Sumidero – This is a deep canyon with a river running through the canyon.  River has been dammed up, making it a very tranquil river.  Before the dam it was a rough river full of rapids, that would not have been passable by boat.  Overall the canyon is impressive, but not as impressive as say the Grand Canyon or even Hell’s Canyon in Eastern Oregon.  The highlight of the trip is seeing crocodiles sunning themselves on the riverbanks on the way back.  Photos of Canyon del Sumidero. Photos of Canyon del Sumidero

San Cristobal de las Casas - Onward and Upward

Other than 5 long hours of narrow, twisting, winding roads, through the cloudy Sierra Mountains, the bus ride from Paleneque to San Cristobal was uneventful.  A brief cab ride to the center of town and I am at the Hostel Casa Real. A couple at the Palenque bus station had just come from San Cristobal and spent a couple of nights here. Taking other travelers recommendations is much easier than going from hostel to hostel, checking each room or avoiding any surprises if booking in advance.

San Cristobal de Las Casas is a Spanish Colonial was first established in 1528 by the Spanish Conquistador Diego de Mazariegos and was renamed San Cristobal in 1535 by the Spanish Crown.  It is 6900 feet above sea level and was kind of chilly.  Although I did hear it spoken a few times that, “it is never this cold here.” It is typical of a Spanish Colonial town, with the plaza in the middle being the center of activity.  On the four sides of a plaza you will find; the City Hall, a Catholic Church and two other buildings with hotel, restaurant and shops.  Center of this plaza had a pavilion where a market is held, bands playing nightly and was surrounded by benches, trees and gardens.

I spent the better part the days there exploring the streets, seeing the Churches and a University.  My intention was to only stay there for a day and leave the next morning.  On the second night I was in a café and spoke with two guys from Mexico City.  They suggested I do a river tour of the Canyon del Sumidero.  Easily convinced, I delayed leaving San Cristobal for another day.  Pictures of the tour in next post. San Cristobal photos

Tulum to Palenque

12 hours!  Bus departs Tulum at 6:30 and in the morning I should be having breakfast in the jungle.  I am headed for Palenque Mayan ruins in the Mexican state of Chiapas. Anyone interested can read all about the ruins here . When I purchased my ticket, thought I had selected a seat in front of the bathroom. Well, that seating chart was wrong and seat number 44 was in the last row right next to the bathroom. It smelled and the bus was full, so no change of seats. Two dudes in front of me immediately put their seats in the recliner position, leaving me with one seating position. Thankfully there was no sitting next to me, but two bus seats still does not allow for any comfortable positions.

Found that if I positioned my head just right, there was a direct flow of fresh air that I could breathe in to take away the smell. Unfortunately that vent could not be closed so it was a chilly night. I had a jacket, but was still wearing shorts and used a travel towel that my co-workers at JAOtech gave me to cover my legs.

We stopped once in the night, somewhere, sometime, but I have no idea. Wasn't sure if it was a quick stop or what, so hesitated before getting off.  Apparently it was dinner hour because the driver(s) there are two, were seated at the roadside tables eating.  I bought a couple of Tacos from the cart and had just enough time to eat, grab a water and head back to my corner of hell.

Restless sleep between dreaming how warm I had been just a short time ago and my head bouncing off the window as the bus went over bumps, natural and man made. Occasionally I would open my eyes and find myself staring at a group of police armed with machine guns as we passed through a Police checkpoint.

The bus arrived on time in Palenque and I took a 5 minute cab ride to El Pancha, a jungle Hostel just outside the park entrance. Park opens at 8:00 so I have breakfast and made a reservation for a Cabana that night.

At the entrance to the park, I am waiting for a collectivo (public transport) to take me the 3 kilometers into the park.  An American couple pulls up and asks if I wanted a ride.  They were from California and were driving around Mexico. Interesting couple, they met in Spain and had traveled to over 95 countries in their lifetime.

I spent the next 5 hours wandering around the ruins, taking lots of pictures and taking it all in.  Posted pictures are of all the buildings they have uncovered so far, but it is estimated there are thousands more still covered by the jungle. Photos of Palenque Ruins

After touring the ruins, I decide I didn't want to hang around for the night, so I head to the bus station. I hear good things about San Cristobal de las Casas, so going to head there and spend the night. Another 4 hour bus ride....yikes!

That's all for now. Next post from San Cristobal de las Casas.

P.S if anyone wants to chat, you can find me online through Skype or MSN at rich_purcell.

First things First

After 3 weeks of icy cold Minnesota weather over the holidays, I had to take care of the basics.  Spend a few days at the beach, soaking up the sun, swimming in the Caribbean Sea and adjusting my attitude and patience to Latin American. Tulum is the perfect place to make that adjustment.  Just south of Cancun, Tulum is quite the opposite of the mega resort, party time all night Mayan Riviera.  I stayed at Copal which offers cobanas with cement floors, a bathroom, walls made out of sticks with plenty of gaps for jungle critters (yes spiders, cockroaches, snakes) a thatched roof, no electricity (candles are free) and bed with mosquito net.  

Anticipating at least a couple of hours at the beach on my first day, I was quite happy to move through customs, baggage claim and bus ticket rather quickly.  Mexican tourists board is all too familiar with impatient American beach travelers, so their is system is pretty efficient.  But the sheer number of people still made it a timely process.  I was happy to see they were still using the red light, green light system for randomly selecting people for baggage search. Thankfully the lady that gave me a look and cut in front of me was the lucky one to get the red light for herself, husband and three kids. 

First stop, Playa del Carmen for bus transfer to Tulum. Bus is an hour late, buy no problem will still make a couple hours beach time. I kill the hour at the Taco Stand watching the tanned, happy beach goers of Playa del Carmen wander the streets, while I sit there in long pants, a stinky shirt and two heavy bags that I guard with my life. 

Finally the bus arrives, we are on the way and my chances for a swim in the Sea before sundown look promising.  About 40 minutes into the trip, the bus blows a rear tire!  Oh no!  No more delays, onward driver, three tires remain. And so he does, without so much as even tapping the breaks, the shredded tire works its way free of the rim and we motor on. Cars pass, honking, pointing at the tire, no matter  there is a schedule to keep. Moving along nicely, about 20 minutes away from Tulum, I am sure to be swimming soon and then.....Pow! The bus lists to the right, people grab hold, luggage shifts, dust in the air and the sweet smell of burning rubber and loud clap of a second shredded rear tire hitting bottom of the bus. Why me? This sounded bad enough to cause driver to pull over and take a look, so I am already planning a strategy. Grab my bag and stick my thumb out or jump on a Collectivo (small public van that transports people) whichever comes first. In the 30 seconds it takes for this strategy to materialize, the driver is already seated and pulling onto the road. I praise this man for doing the right thing, after all there are still two good tires on each side. However, not so fast. I mean not so fast as in we only go about 25 MPH, which is utter torture as other buses pass us at the speed of light. What should have been 15 minutes, turned into an hour. Beach time has been jeopardized and I resolve myself to getting there by dark and enjoying happy hour by the Sea.

Not even the most creative writer could entertain by writing about laying on the beach in a vegetative state, so I won't bore you with the next few days. However, I did take some photos of where I stayed and the beach. 

Next up, a 12 hour bus ride the Palenque, Mexico in the state of Chiapas. My first time on an international flight to Santiago, Chile I couldn't imagine my reaction to spending that many hours on an airplane. 12 hours on a bus....I am just hoping there aren't more flat tires.